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Tbilisi · Then & Now

Rustaveli Avenue: Tbilisi Then & Now

The avenue at the heart of Tbilisi has worn many names and many faces. Here it is across a hundred years — earth road to boulevard — in real photographs, each pinned to the exact spot it was taken.

It began as Golovin Avenue

Before 1918 this street was Golovin Avenue, named after a Russian viceroy of the Caucasus. In the 1880s it was still a broad ribbon of packed earth, lined with young trees and the occasional horse-drawn carriage — grand in ambition, dusty in fact.

Golovin Avenue in Tbilisi, 1888 — a wide earth road with carriages and low buildings
Golovin Avenue (today Rustaveli), 1888

The avenue of theatres

By 1904 the street had filled in with ornate facades. This hand-tinted postcard shows the Artistic and State (Kazyonny) theatres, their balconies and cornices piled up over the pavement, with a tram already running down the middle. This was the avenue at its imperial peak.

Golovin Avenue, Tbilisi, 1904 — the Artistic and State theatres, hand-tinted postcard
Golovin Avenue, the Artistic & State theatres, 1904

A new name, a new order

In 1918 the avenue was renamed for Shota Rustaveli, the medieval Georgian poet. Soviet rule arrived soon after, and the street became a stage for it — parades, demonstrations, and columns of Young Pioneers marching down the boulevard in their neckerchiefs.

Young Pioneers marching and saluting on Rustaveli Avenue, Tbilisi, around 1930
Young Pioneers on the avenue, c. 1930

Trolleybuses and plane trees

By the mid-1950s the earth was long gone, paved over for trolleybuses that hummed beneath the plane trees. In colour the avenue looks almost modern — the same grand facades on the right, now shading a very different street.

A trolleybus on Rustaveli Avenue, Tbilisi, 1955, with the opera house on the right
Rustaveli Avenue, 1955

Landmarks on the skyline

Look down the avenue in 1972 and a new landmark rises behind it: the TV tower on Mtatsminda, the mountain that hangs over the city. Buses crowd the junction with Chavchavadze; the street is busy, modern, unmistakably the same avenue — only aged another lifetime.

Rustaveli Avenue at the Chavchavadze junction, Tbilisi, 1972, TV tower on the hill beyond
Rustaveli at Chavchavadze, the TV tower beyond, 1972

Stand on the same spot

The hard part with an old photograph is always finding where the photographer stood. That's what Time Portal is for: every historical photo is pinned to the precise spot it was taken. Open Rustaveli Avenue on the map, drag the year back toward 1888, and watch the boulevard peel away frame by frame — then walk there and see it for yourself.

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More Tbilisi stories are on the way — vanished buildings and the city in the 1900s.